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The first 48 hours in Costa Rica: I awoke at sunrise. I always do. Usually, a few birds chattering like caffeinated middle managers kick off the day. But that morning, my thoughts were racing—ten madmen circling one folding chair, each of them me. There would be no boredom for

The view was pure rainforest: a lush, tangled wilderness so dense with trees and vines you couldn't see more than five feet into it. This was the kind of place that swallows paths whole within days and casually hosts snakes that would strongly prefer you visit elsewhere.